Saturday, March 10, 2012

Elmina Castle


I got to spend a little more time in Ghana recently. In contrast to most surrounding countries, Ghana is considered stable, advanced ad prosperous. It is one of the largest cocoa producers in the world and is also home to Lake Volta, the largest artificial lake in the world by surface area. The coastline is amazing with lush green palm trees swaying in the wind and the blue ocean crashing against the white beaches. Sadly, some of the biggest tourist attractions in Ghana are the remnants of slavery along the coastline in the form of slave castles.




We spent one night on the beach in Elmina, a small fishing village with a population of around 20,000 and visited St George's Castle while we were there. Fishing boats were being made on the beaches as we watched, carved out by hand and then painted. Inside the Castle, I found myself standing at "the door of no return." The gate where hundreds of thousands of slaves fates were sealed. I stood on the stones where the slaves were brought the 30 meters from the dungeon in the castle to the ship that carried them to the plantations in America. As the tour continued I found myself locked up in a small ventilated cell, inside the rooms where slaves were held in inhumane conditions, in court where the governor pointed out his concubines, and I also enjoyed an incredible view from the top of the castle. The contrasts were great! That such a fantastic place could have such a terrible story...

The slaves were kept at the castle in order to determine who would bear the voyage across the Atlantic. The castle has been used by the Portuguese, Dutch and Brits for various things over the last 500 years, but slave trade was the most prevalent. Toward the end of the guided tour was a Nigerian word. He gave a monologue and there was silence. Reverently we all listened to this man who drew up the historic lines and spoke of forgiveness. That Africans today would free themselves from the past if they could forgive. It was an emotional moment, and all Africans said "amen" in the end.




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